Our first day in the nation’s capital. Well, the breakfast buffet was excellent. Since we are in a German hotel chain, there were appropriate German touches, like salami and cheese.
After breakfast, we hopped onto our lovely van for the one and a half hour trip to the nearest section of the wall called Badaling. Two things popped up at about the same time on the outskirts of Beijing. Orange trees loaded with fruit and very steep mountainous terrain. (All the hotels we’ve stayed at have had wonderful fresh squeezed juice.) The trees were rather shrub-like in size, but we all enjoyed the colors, especially the reds.
We started to see parts of the wall and towers crawling over the hills for a few miles before we parked. It was stunning to see the man made structures as the land was so mountainous. The wall follows the ridgelines, regardless of how steep or treacherous. The bus passed under a beautiful Chinese gate and into the parking lot with all the others. We ignored the shops and headed for the museum. There we found more well-done dioramas showing soldiers at the battlements, ready with their bows and arrows to slay the hordes rushing up the valleys on horseback. I’m glad the warring tribes have cut it out now. Another feature of the museum is the room of photos of heads of state who have visited the wall. Couldn’t find Nixon who started it all.
Then off we went, through the gate, after buying our tickets. The immediate choice was left or right. Left looked less crowded. It was steep! A stone path about 10 feet wide, with stairs in some places. Every few minutes came a tower where we could rest and look around.
We learned that there’s more than one Great Wall. Many walls were built at many times, some interconnected and others apart. Each was based on the threat at the time. Most are in ruin now. A few miles in different sections are rebuilt. I read that the walls were built to defend from the north, but invaders came from the south.
We had lunch when we came down from the wall….dumplings with meat stuffing, yummy. Made right before our eyes in a kitchen with a window onto the sidewalk.
Vendors….the most aggressive yet. Calling out constantly ‘hello, lady,’ stepping in front of you, sometimes grabbing your arm. One woman stuck her head into the bus door as we were preparing to leave. Tee shirts for a dollar. Yes, American dollars were accepted by most all the vendors. They wouldn’t touch Canadian however. We got those t-shirts cheap!! One vendor that I liked was carving polished black marble. Not really carving but chipping into it with a pointed tool, which made a white spot. I bought a small one, then he marked my name and date on it. He was friendly and spoke English quite well. I got the idea to ask the guy if I could try it myself. So he laughed and said yes. He let me work away on one of his designs that was already in progress. I guess he figured he could cover any boo-boos. But I did very well and didn’t mess up. He tried to instruct me in my right hand, but the tool was very heavy and I couldn’t manage it. So I amazed him even more when I switched to my left hand. It was lots of fun, as I like to meet artists in my travels.
Back on the bus, back into Beijing traffic which seems like rush hour all the time! Next up was the Temple of Heaven. Once in the gate and onto the spacious grounds, the first thing we noticed was groups of people playing cards, slapping down their cards forcefully. Then the music…visitors were playing musical instruments, others singing, some with mikes. This was all for their own enjoyment. Badminton players were in evidence also. This place was huge, with many gates, leading to courtyards and brightly painted buildings. The colors were gold, blue, green and brown-red. Lots of carved marble stairs and pillars. One of the ways the ancients honored the Gods was animal sacrifice. I’ve never understood that concept, so I tried not to picture any of that in the lovely surroundings.
Next up the pearl market, within walking distance to the Temple. Four story building, the first floor of which was the fish market which stunk to high heaven, speaking of heaven. Only the thought of mounds of bargain pearls got us past the odors.
Overwhelming. Probably a couple hundred young female vendors, all dressed in white uniforms, all highly competent negotiators, shouting out to us as we walked past. I kept my focus by looking for mabé pearls only. They are the super lumpy ones most people don’t care for, so each stall had just a few in the corner. I got a lovely, lumpy, pendant. And a few gifts. Every one in our group emerged from the building with treasures.
Ah, supper. In the German restaurant at the hotel. Paulaner beer from Munich, schnitzel, salad—wonderful. “Large” meant a classic one liter mug—eine Mass.
Since I’ve started this trip my head falls asleep before it heads the pillow. And it’s not the beer.
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